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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Paddington Jetty Bear, Sep 25, 2013.
Because #[email protected]
I could mark "ditto" for most of the comments. But the number one reason is I can't get that feeling any other way. I've been an adrenaline junkie all my life (and my body has paid for it). Used to race moto-x, skateboard, ski, water ski, kneeboard, boogie board, mtn bike, etc. until some fellers smarter than me invented snowboards and wakeboards, then I started beating the hell out of myself on those. Played hockey too. Then one day I went surfing and actually stood up and caught my first wave, and have been obsessed with it ever since. Nothing I've ever done gives me that same feeling as being carried by a wave. Not even driving 100mph on acid.
Someone here compared it to sex. Well I got my cherry popped that day and I've been a nymphomaniac wave slut ever since.
Keeps me sane, literally. Surfed the other afternoon, waves were small but clean. About 5 people out and knew most of them. Stayed over to the side, didn't do much talking, and just took the whole thing in. Didn't want to get out, but darkness won.
10 yrs ago, probably wouldn't have even gone out because it was too small. As I have gotten older, I appreciate every session, every wave, as an opportunity to get better and forget about all the nonsense. Also know I wouldn't have written anything so corny 10 yrs ago either.
Get a big kick out of reading all the battles and back and forth on this forum, but have to say that there are also quite a few threads that remind me how much I truly need to surf.
Simple....it's my church. I go out there to connect with the ocean. Sometimes it's beautiful out there and sometimes it's dingy, gray or even raining. I paddle out to stay humble. The ocean, storms and sea life remind me how little I am on this planet and to not take anything for granted. I am thankful for every moment that is given to me and every moment I have is an attempt to return to the sea.
Last week I surfed with dolphins, today, I opted to stay on the beach and avoid the Humpback Whales feeding 100 yards offshore. The sand was cool in between my toes but the sun was warm on my back. The air was moist and salty. My coffee was the perfect temperature and the other people on the beach were all happy to be there. Most of them late or ditching obligations to just come and BE at the beach. The better question is why wouldn't you want to be a surfer? \nm/
I remember when I was little kid buying my first Surfing magazine because it was the bikini issue. Cut it all up and hung all the picts on my walls. I can remember staring at the surfing posters on my wall and actually thinking of what it would feel like to surf on those waves. That Xmas I got a bunch of money and went over beachside to a seedy pawn shop and bought my first surfboard. Was a Randy Richenburg (Florida shaper) that had about a foot of the nose broken off and re-attached! Also had glassed wooden fins.
Was hooked ever since. Surfed my first contest a year later in the ESA on a brand new custom Richenburg my dad had shaped for me for Xmas! My dad loved to fish, so every weekend he would take me my brother and friends to the beach. He loved to fish at the Inlet (NSB/Ponce) and the pier and those were also the best surf spots! Now any chance I get, my son and I go surfing! Just took him on his first to Nicaragua and it was one of the greatest times of both our lives!
Thank the good Lord for surfing!!!
Ha! Quality stuff here fellers. Man I picked a bad day to not go to work.
"I once read about a drug which seemed to slow down time...
Something like that is happening to me now..."
Surfers and the Lunatic Fringe know what I'm talking about.
10 seconds on a wave can seem blissful and eternal. Always a positive in an otherwise questionable world.
i surf becuase other wise i have salt water withdrawel.
Besides falling in love with my husband, surfing is the most exhilarating thing on earth. Every day it is different. I find myself getting grumpy when I have not been in the water in a few days. I meet people who say they "used to surf" and I cannot understand the concept of no longer surfing, with the exception of injuries. I am happy with small clean waves and will probably never ride big waves because I started in my 40s. Surfing is amazing.
Because I'm good at it! HA! Not really, actually I suck, but I love the water and always have for as long as I can remember. I just love being in the water and surfing is great fun and always a challenge. It gives me another opportunity to connect with nature. What can I say, I'm a child of the tides.
I like to surf in the cold because it's one of the few legitimate occasions where it's OK to pee your pants (wetsuit).
When I am in the water is the only time I have a high self esteem or feel good about myself and forget the crushing sadness that otherwise permeates every aspect of my disastrous life...
We all come from the sea, but we are not all of the sea. Those of us who are, we children of the tides, must return to it again and again, until the day we don't come back leaving only that which was touched along the way.
Pretty cool thread for a change!
Saw a pretty cool show on Discover or something a few weeks back and it talked about a more amphibious type of human that was all hairy like a Sasquatch but was more equipped for the ocean, could stay under for extreme amounts of time like a gator and hunted. Then the show started going more in the direction of a Merman, which just started sounding ridiculous, but up until then I was glued to the TV. Makes a lot of sense, we certainly are meant to be in the water, if at least part of the time.
was that the fake mermaid show?
I think so, it was pretty interesting up until that point. Certainly a possibility that we evolved from something more water friendly, but they lost me at the words mermaid / merman...
Que the Zoolander quotes
we did but way before primates.
Yeah, I won't believe for a second we evolved from monkey's, apes, etc., we're definitely more advanced than them obviously, so no way it's possible.
we didnt. we share common ancestor but that's it. opposable thumbs FTW!