Your right I may not but I may I'm young and don't got much fear and always willing too do something once.
Paddling out during the peak of the Hurricane Bill swell (Saturday afternoon/evening) at a beachbreak was difficult even with the long period in OCMD. I know there were very few takers between 18th and 12th streets. Especially compared to Sunday morning when the swell dropped considerably but was still alot of fun. I am not sure how that compares to Hawaii at 4-6' on a reef. I would love for it to be that big around here 10-15 times a year (without the freezing water temps). I dare say most people around here are not ready for it. I have surfed in Hawaii during south swells of 2-3' on some nice reefs but I would have loved for it to be bigger and more powerful.
I got barreled in an 8 footer in Maui...that was two years ago...and I don't think I've caught a better ride since. I love Hawaii, I'm trying to figure out how to move to Maui!
