Just saw 1st St 30 min ago. looked like "endless summer". perfect peeling headhigh(if you're 1.5' tall) waves. bigger guys were getting the crap slapped out of their ankles.
the 'waiting' gamble waves are here but tide stinks and not being helped by wsw gales….heres' to an improvement for the afternoon ……. hoping what usually happens doesn't ..so i can git mine...
yeah, and set to "Grandmother", a little bit to sensitive. Look what happens when you write the name of the host of "'Merkin Bandstand". who is **** Clark. maybe Cock Clark will do. It do.
you said it!! First surf in six weeks due to ear surgery last month, surfing against medical advice, wearing ear plugs+ bonnet hood underneath wetsuit hood for max ear protection. 8:30 a.m: STOKED to paddle out in what looked like consistent chest high sets - wind straight offshore and the sun was bright. 10:00 a.m. sitting around waiting for waist high sets that were now 15 minutes apart and dropping. sesh over... Not complaining...but for 12 second swell...that **** was going going gone!
Yep. I had the right ear drilled out a year ago, and the left ear done six weeks ago. If my math is correct, I'm done with ear surgery!
sounds like u folks got out too late,it was pumping this morning in central jersey.first time in a long time that I actually stayed at the first spot I checked.didnt even need to check anywhere else,it was perfect and its a spot that doesn't usually break.there were some glorious lefts,which my places are usually all rights. I didn't see it yesterday,all snowed in and raining.walked like 3 miles in the freezing rain,now im getting a cough.my car doesn't do snow well.went out 8 am today,been shoveling out since 7am,got to the beach and surfed for 3 hours.tide was right,wind was howling offshore,and I was the only one out.waves were probly 7ft,dropped to about 3-4 by the time I left.there wasn't even really any current.i guess it was one of those right time right place moments.spent my v day with my one true love the sea
Monmouth county was way faster than it looked from shore. I went out around noon for 2 hours, got a few really amazing rides. But, I got like 5 beatings. It was breaking in maybe a foot of water where I went out and was so fast and churning I couldn't always keep up with em. Like a treadmill. Im shocked I didn't break my board on a few of the beat downs. Im sore, but smiling.
Got it in MoCo from about 4:30 till dark... glassed off beautifully. Sets mostly about chest high, but a few isolated head high waves every once in a while. The sun went down and lit up the sky over the houses... the full moon rose up over the ocean like a glowing, shiny, new penny... spilling liquid, molten copper into the ocean that flowed across the horizon like lava. I couldn't help but extend my arm, and wrap my fingers around the moon to put it in the barrel of my 5 mil gloves... and wonder... how many more of these moments do I have left?
first surf in feb got out at local spot at 4:30, breaking well and cooperating winds and tides. water not so cold cause maybe i never stopped paddling…only got 4 waves and only one decent one…still it felt good, soooooper dooooper moon rise...
Finally made it out off Dam Neck, 3:30-5PM Friday. Pretty much had fizzled out by then. Still, snatching 10 or so leftover "crumbs" under the table is better than starving.
Moco yesterday right before going in. Really fast barrels with real power because they were bouncing off the sand in one foot of water during low tide. A good day.
