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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by LongIslandBro, Oct 30, 2017.
Opps; you beat me to it
Keep trying to do rollos......maybe we can visit you in the hospital and steal all your opiates.
That was rough.
The guy looked like he put a wetsuite over football pads. All that gear kept him alive.... why didn't he go right?
Hatteras 1982. Report calling it 10 to 12'. 5'6" twin fin. First two waves I dropped in and kicked out shortly after. Third wave thought, I got this. Tried to turn to soon and board slid out in front of me. Got sucked up and pounded and then dragged for what seemed like eternity. I had no breath left and thought this is it. Inhaled a bunch of foam and got to shore gagging. I sat there for awhile contemplating what had happened. The paddled back out. I learned the importance of a proper bottom turn that day the hard way. I've had falls where I was injured but that one I will never forget. God I love Hatteras.
Hatteras 1982. Report calling it 10 to 12'. 5'6" twin fin. First two waves I dropped in and kicked out shortly after. Third wave thought, I got this. Tried to turn to soon and board slid out in front of me. Got sucked up and pounded and then dragged for what seemed like eternity . I had no breath left and thought this is it. Inhaled a bunch of foam and got to shore gagging. I sat there for awhile contemplating what had happened. The paddled back out. I learned the importance of a proper bottom turn that day the hard way. I've had falls where I was injured but that one I will never forget. God I love Hatteras.
That Cotton wipeout was no joke.
I feel like such a [email protected] talking about a head hi Puerto wipeout.
Holy poop. That dude was flying then got swallowed by a mountain of water
Central Nicaragua 2015. I was with some friends, and we were sharing a panga with some Hawaiian groms/teenagers from the same resort. The world class river mouth was not breaking properly so they wanted to go to a beach break and get barrel shots with their photographer. The swell was SSW [email protected] Needless to say, it was bombing and closing out hard. But these kids needed some instagram photos to prove they're not kooks or whatever, and I wasn't going to be the only one sitting on the boat, so I paddled out. Long story short, I try to pick off a smaller one, around 8ft on the face. I get lipped and I fall on my board going down, bruising a rib. Then I get washed in, and panga can't get to shore to retrieve me, so I try to paddle back out and get denied twice before finally making it back out past the break. Everyone was just as surprised as I was when I made it back out to the boat. I've never been more out of breath in my life. Thought I was going to be spending the night in the bush.
****ing kids, hahaha! That's gnarly. Did you ever think about ditching the board and swim back to the boat, while getting slammed trying to duck dive back out with bruised ribbages? Or were you thinking the board was necessary flotation? Or too nice of a board to let loose?
I'm thinking a 5'6" twinny in 12' bombing Hatteras was the better lesson to learn here
1) SSIRI winter swell in the late 90s head high, made one got cocky and ate the second lost two fins and plugs and felt like a car accident. sat on the beach shook for a few minutes and made myself paddle back out but didn't do much after that.
2) landed on a fin that and put a 2" cut on the sole of my foot. had to get stitched up in urgent care and drive home, with a stick shift and wearing off novacaine!
3) my local reef break two years ago (well OH) tried to duckdive a closeout set and got sucked over the falls and ass first into the reef. blew my rashy completely up my torso and off my head but I grabbed it as it was sliding down my arm and away for good! again to urgent care to get ass cheek sewed up.
My only disappointment is that, with all the beat downs you all received, none of you died.
That's the punch line. we did die.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cN5toFdV33U Holy hell , Now thats a beat down !!!
I’ve posted about my saga from my last trip to PR, shoulder blown up, etc., don’t have the energy to type the whole thing up againe. Most of you know the story anyways.
What up shredders? sounds like some of you have taken some beatings! I guess I have had my fair share of memorable events involving beat downs. I had two crazy moments, not necessarily beatings but getting drilled while dealing with other issues.
One time when I was about 16 or 17 I was surfing a pumping swell at the lighthouse. Every once in awhile a nice right would come in and break towards the jetty. Those can be very rewarding or complete nightmares. I took one and pig dogged from the drop and got completely annihilated. While getting spun, I felt a weird sensation on my foot (my big toe). While I was getting rag dolled, it keep hitting me like a knife in and out. I finally came after the second wave got me and pulled my board to me by the leash and felt the sensation again. I had a large hook in my big toe and the bottom rig was wrapped around the leash just yanking away. I could not get on board and paddle due to the entanglement. I floundered to shore with the pulse of the hook gouging deeper and deeper. Got to shore and it was in all the way. No way it was being pulled out...my bro tried briefly but it (the hook) was doing what it does best. I went to ER and they gave me a shot in the toe and had to push it through to remove...fun times indeed. I surfed that afternoon until the shot wore off then it was throbbing pain for days!
Another episode that was nuts. I was surfing Ehukai beach and it was a sorta weak 3-4 glassy fun day. I somehow blew out my ear (not sure exactly what happened, did not get drilled that I recall). Came up after a wave and felt water entering my upper ear, nose, and throat like a saline flushing. Anyway, I immediately lost control and my equilibrium was totally gone. I could not get on my board or paddle. I basically held on to my board and got washed in. I could not even stand up...had to drag myself up the sand. Eventually it wore off after a good 45 minutes. Probably the scariest situation I have been in while in the ocean. helpless.
I remember one day during a rising swell,nothing special but my friend dropped in on me and we both wiped out and then I stand up and realize I was standing on him.like 1 second its 3' deep,another moment its 8' deep idk.wasnt a bad wipeout for me but maybe he got the better end of the beat down