I wholeheartedly agree. gnargnar wins for his 2nd and 3rd paragraphs. Lots of head lacerations here. Ya know, there's a reason why Roy sports his spaceman helmet. Maybe we should all buy them and start a new trend.
This past Sunday I went over the falls and in the ensuing tumble my foot made some forceful contact with a fin somehow knocking it out of the board and giving me some nice flesh wounds. As much as it was bleeding I figured I'd need some stitches and sh!t but it wasn't as bad as it seemed at first. Ended my sesh though. Small potatoes compared to some of the other stories here. Only been surfing (on a board) for about a year so that's the best I got so far. Now that it has stopped oozing I'm gonna try to get out today or tomorrow with a neoprene fin sock on to keep it covered. Dunno how that'll work.
Not to mention that a helmet makes a fine attachment point for your surfing banner. Banners always make things more fun! Needless I say more...
Ex and I went to Hawaii to stay with her dad for a couple weeks. He gave me his truck to explore for surf. I found this nice little break near a boat ramp. Only 1 local girl and me. She's only taking rights, but the lefts look way better. (I've recently gotten LASIK, but when I was there, w/out my specs, I'm blind as a bat.) So I take off on my first wave and go left, it's bout shoulder hi. As soon as I get to the bottom, board just stops, and I fly straight on top of the reef. All I could do was hold on to the top of the reef, while 3-4 more waves broke on top of me. Board was totaled, and I was a bloody mess. That was my first and last time surfing a reef.
Had an injury, then I went to Belmar, NJ and my wounds miraculously healed...you could say that the water in Belmar is Grail water!
split face open on nose of board, chics dig scars so its ok shredded ACL on point panic stairs on May 17 2013- still recovering but I am in the water, Not as nimble as I was, but I look forward to 'relearning' a bit.
Second that.. those things are not pleasant. I have since adopted booties on my PR trips. They look dumb as **** when trunking it, but whatevs.
One- kicked out of a shoulder high left, wind caught board and the rail chopped me hard in the throat. Throat locked up (couldn't breath in or out), proceeded to take rest of set without being able to get air. Almost drowned, still don't know how I made it in. Barfed on beach with gawkers gawking (as there was no visible wound, I just looked like I was stroking out for no reason). Two- Took a very large purple man o war to the chest (stupidly paddled right into it on a paddle out in the impact zone). Tentacles wrapped all around me and as the fire hit me I tried grabbing the thing frantically trying to get it off me. Spread tentacles to my hands arms and face. Went into shock by the time I hit the beach, beach patrol took me to the hospital. Three - Ran over on purpose by older local on a big single fin LB. Caught my heel on my duck dive, trip to hospital with 30 stitches inside and out. All happened in the 80's, all happened at the Ormond Beach pier (back when it was still there and the middle section was missing). Good times.
i late dropped into a barrel over a very shallow sand bar, before i knew it i was going head over heals onto my shoulder directly into the bar. i completely tore two tendons in my shoulder. I couldnt surf for 4 months and it was the worst pain i have ever felt. i have a permanent bump where my collar bone is sticking up. Remember just because its sand that doesn't mean it wont mess you up. i learned that the hard way. I feel and surf fine now though
It was on purpose. I was a young grom and the guy always had it out for all of us (me and my grom friends). He'd hassle us, call us off waves he couldn't catch but would paddle for, yell at us just for the fun of it, etc. The guy even "ordered" me in to the beach one time for gods sakes, because I paddled out on an ancient LB log that he didn't deem appropriate, I kid you not (didn't go in of course, paddled down the beach though). Everyone knew who the guy was, and he only surfed the pier (at least I never saw him at any other breaks). We did our best to stay out of his way, but he caught me on a paddle out and that was that. Totally on purpose. My dad wanted to go down and beat the guys head in after he ran me over, the guy was an ongoing problem for all of the "kids". I begged him not to for the obvious reasons, and thankfully he let it go. That whole place back then was tough on groms. Getting punched was pretty common, hassled by cops etc. Good times, the 80's didn't f*ck around lol.. not like now.
Heard that. On my second morning in ES, I stayed out too long when tide was headed out and I got introduced to the sand bottom by a closeout (what's that?). Felt like it was in slow motion like a car accident. I usually brace the head and tuck fetal and my right lower back was what I landed on. Could almost not walk up from the beach and definitely couldn't sit, stand, walk, or lay down with any level of comfort for 2 days. At first, thought I may have fractured my lumbar vertebrae or something in the pelvic area. Ended up, from what I know (no x-ray), being just a really bad nerve impingement that I had to deal with for 6 weeks but didn't slow my surfing or skating down. Just happy it wasn't a rock reef.
During the winter, back in the late 80's...surf was well overhead and wind blowing hard offshore and cold. Kicked the board out at the end of a wave only have it come back at me hard hitting my face. Broke my cheek bone in 3 places and had some reconstruction done the day after. That morning, it looked like someone went casino on my face with a bat. Trouble talking for a little bit after...at least it wasn't a jaw bone. Still have a small scar on my right cheek from the incident.
Yea, we should have. We spit loogies on his truck a bunch of times when he was out, so at least there is that.
I've eaten foam to the head and grille several times and can't believe I've not lost a tooth or eye and haven't even broken a cranial or facial bone. Fins have grazed my skull plenty of times too. Could be Van Gogh any day now.
Dude beware of a staph infection. Hand and foot wounds can ruin you. I hate to say it man, but let it heal. Despite the rants I have on here, I am serious.
Broke my nose trying not to run a kook family over at 1st street October 2012. If y'all are reading this, I can't remember you. The ensuing concussion from the AAA Surfboards Hawaii to the dome. March 2013, I had the day off. I saw a seal in the Jetty that day (did any of y'all). There were a couple of lil tubes to tuck into. It was a great day. I was tucked into what I should have turned out of, but I thought "dude, you can make it." I didn't. Got sucked up, the lack of mobility and proximity to the rail made for a 10 stitch gash on my lower lip exposing my teeth. It could have been worse, but I just happened to be wearing a retainer that day. My teeth felt a little loose for days after, but I got lucky. Doing a turn to cutback on a wave Monday morning if I am not mistaken (when did we have the honkin SSW winds the other day?) at another bar I like. The wave pretty much smacked my in the man-zone. OUCH! Rightty still feels bruised.