Ten really nice boards And very little free time, or one really crappy board with all the time in the world to use it?
Screw it. Be the master of your destiny and have the quiver you want and the time you want. Not easy at all to do, but sitting and thinking about it won't get you there. Get off your arse BCN and fly birdie!! I'll give your quiver a jump start with 5-7 of the boards I don't need. *DISCLAIMER: The above applies far more to those without kids or "a boss" as from what I've heard, those can fill a schedule fast.
Appreciate it bro! I was just thinking about how ridiculous it is that I've had this new nugget for about a month and have been out on out twice
Aren't you in East Bum working like a slave in the Dust Bowl? Unless you find a wave pool that nugget's gonna grow roots on it.
I took mine out in less than ride-able conditions to get it wet and filthy, next week had glassy waist high conditions to break her in good and proper
I'd rather have one haggard board and plenty of time to use it. I currently have two ok boards and little time to surf during the week, but I just made a career change that will greatly improve flexibility in my schedule. I'd be lying if I said surfing had nothing to do with this move. Pretty excited about it.
I can bodysurf real good without a sponge or fins or anything. Torpedo spins. I use my hand and arm as a planer. Just give me a wave and some time and I'll surf it one way or the other. I don't need no stinkin' board. There are guys on the east side of Cuba who will get barrels on a refrigerator door. That being said, I have a 9' Mindless longboard, a Magnum PI style wave ski, an Ocean kayak, a 7'6" home made fun board (The Wave Hog), a 7'6" Lightning Bolt ( circa 1974 ), a 6'4" Orion shortboard (Old Yellow), a 6'4" home made fish (The Splittail Wideass), a couple of bodyboards, fins, and a 4'6" mini-grom spear. Who doesn't?
I plan on it. Next week I'll have time to drag all the flotsam and jetsam out and take a group photo. I'm too old now to ride it on what it was made for ( how bout Clyde Aiku - charging big mackers in his 60s! ), but it looks great hanging on the wall collecting dust.
that's the thing that sucks about surfing the eastcoast.u can never make plans for a certain day,its always the heat of the moment.usually when I show up its windy and onshore,blownout,and I come home and see pics of perfect barrels an hour after I left the beach.thats my curse.when I was 19,in love and unemployed lol,i was at the beach every single day,summer,fall winter.i remember pitchen a tent on mothers day a few years ago and it blew away and I sed fuchit.nowadays I go to the beach all the time,but only for an hour or 2.back when I had freetime I nearly lived at the beach.leave home with sandwhiches,liquor,pot,boards.back then the only available forecast was the phone number I called 10x a day.we would go do our own polar bear plunge in febrary with 6ft barrels.i remember I went in like waist deep for a millisecond,and the girl I was with actually swam out right intime to see one of the best barrels I ever saw break right on her head.it was epic
I like Gaffers version of the poll feature better than the one on SI! Gaffer did you go dig up that old poll thread about surfing alone just to show waterbaby that there is a poll option.
Here is a poll: Do you prefer A. Frontside B. Backside C. Switchstance Do you like A. Banging the lip B. Throwing big spray C. Both at once Is it better A. Hot and soupy B. Brisk and frothy C. Just right Would you rather A. Charge it alone B. Go off in a crowd C. Groove with a few close buds? Score: If you answered A. B. or C. you are a total tool who needs to be towed into a 23 footer and lip launched.