I'm not much of a memory bank, as unfortunate as it is, but this year was down to where can i go without shoving sumtin up my arse or otherwise to prove i'm not a zombie. Always a winter trip, down to central Florida late January is generally welcoming. Buddy and I were down at Cocoa, closer to river side. We ended up scoring chest to head hi rides that didn't make up this way here in the carolinas, which is a big win in my book. Buddy is anxiety prone, def was more relaxed with everything going down and the two person vs say 4 person trip was easier to nail down where and when. Taking shrooms n seeing the smashing pumpkins cover band was awesome, def was crowded in the bar with a lotta suspect ppl. Changing the game plan from Costa Rica to California with the buds in August was also a great one. Ventured down from Los Angeles to San Diego, hitting most spots except Swami's unfortunately. Both my buds were shocked they weren't sht talked out in the water. Getting a ton of ganja the first day to scoring at head hi rides in Trestles and OH+ in Oceanside, Cali didn't disappoint. Actually, we caught Cali after they dropped restrictions the week before and opened up everything we could get our hands on. Def a great surf trip I whipped up after we was talking about cancelling surf trip altogether. Couple trips up to south NC, stayed in Carolina Beach close to my bday in April and dropping by Wrightsville a month or so ago after a wedding. Nothing to write home about from Carolina Beach, did score a day or two there. While we had a couple swell makers here, I've come to the realization that i shouldn't free up my august to october calendar because we might get some cane swell. It was short lived and the hype gets bigger every year - that's the media's fault...maybe. Next year, Puerto Rico in February i hope and been talking w a buddy about south OBX so i wouldn't be surprised if we get that one nailed down. Didn't get to strike South FL as originally planned in January, with direct flights to Palm Beach from Charleston coming into effect in February, maybe it'll be in the cards. Planning on going down to Miami in May for the F1 race, doubt there'll be something to ride then but i'll be around. Another year of covid tho, another year of me not getting it. Pretty surprised by that too
Looks good, I spent summer in France working in the surf house and surfing every day. Epic waves in Hossegor. I decided to open my own place and so I did a trip to Portugal. I found a house there which I believe I turn into a surf house. Portugese waves are also epic and in winter i could check finally how Nazare looks like. Excited.