Years Surfing + Top Two spots

Discussion in 'Mid Atlantic' started by MDSurfer, Oct 11, 2010.

  1. MDSurfer

    MDSurfer Well-Known Member

    Dec 30, 2006
    I always have to smile when I hear thread posters commenting on how long they've been surfing and where they've found "awesome" waves, so let's just put it out there for everyone to see. Post yours here:

    When did you start surfing and how many years have you been surfing regularly?
    1. Started surfing in 1964 on a Royal Hawaiian pop-out by Dextra from Turco's Sport Center (WldWood) @ 14 in Cape May, then moved to OCM in '66, so I've been surfing for 46 years now. I lived through the short board revolution surfing on Weber Performers, Feather's, Mini-Feathers, Ski's, Vee-Bottoms, and Strato Series with Spyder Wright's surf team with Gary Ferguson, Dave Hartman and "Skill" Johnson.

    What are your top two favorite waves to surf and where would you really like to
    Surf that you haven't?
    2. All time favorite wave is La Libertad, El Salvador, and Lowers @ Trestles in CA comes in a close second. Haven't made it to HI yet, but I hope to before it's all over.

    This was from '74 (after 8 years of surfing) when I drove to La Libertad, El Salvador where Bob Rotterdam (Roberto) was starting to build his resort, Punta Rocas. Smoothies at Tienda Gloria were our sustenance, but I suspect they were being made with water from what we affectionately called "The Polio River," that created the point break beside it.

    Last edited: Aug 23, 2011

    MATT JOHNSON Well-Known Member

    Oct 11, 2009
    Started Surfing in 1987 in Cape May & Wildwood been surfin for about 20 years

    Two places I have surf and would like???

    1. Rincon Santa barbara California.

    2.montauk ny

  3. hydrophilic

    hydrophilic New Member

    Dec 19, 2008
    Started surfing in 2004 while living on Chincoteague Island, VA
    (Assateague Island National Seashore)

    Favorites and Wish List?

    1. Point Judith, RI / Cerritos, Baja Sur

    2. Mundaka, Spain
  4. pkovo

    pkovo Well-Known Member

    Jun 7, 2010
    15 years...started late at around 20 years old while living in central PA of all places.

    I haven't done too much travelling, but two of my best sessions were in Costa Rica.

    1. Boca Baranca on the first day of a new swell. My friend and I, 3 guys from FL, and two guys from CA and that was it. Longest rides I've ever had. We showed up the next day at sunrise hoping for a repeat and there were like 100 people already there. I have no Pics

    2. A toss up between a remote left point we found and surfed with no others except our large group, or a day we got lucky at Little Hawaii and surfed with our crew and just two others.


    I've also had some fabulous sessions in good old NJ.

    Wave I would like to surf? May sound weak, but Trestles without a crowd. Wave just looks so fun.
  5. njsurfer42

    njsurfer42 Well-Known Member

    Nov 9, 2009
    i started surfing in 1990 in my hometown of ocnj at the age of 9. so i guess it's 20 years now...jeeze, time flies!

    i'm hard pressed to pick an all-time favorite, but the places that come up when i think of places i've been that i want to go back to are these:

    1) chicken's, north male atolls, maldives. a really fun, rippable left reef pass. surfed it for the first time this, so fun!

    2)emily's, morro negrito surf camp, panama. it's just a fun, playful left coral/cobble stone pointbreak.

    of course, i've had absolutely mind-blowing session at home, in hatteras, costa rica, & in california. in fact, if i were going to relocate, it would be to either northern san diego county, so i could make black's my home break, or to santa barbara or ventura counties, where i've heard it's somewhat less crowded.
    after missing 4 straight hurricane seasons while in college, however, i swore that i'd never miss another. that no matter what, i'd be home (in nj) for the fall. i've kept that promise for the last 7 years. there's really no where else i want to be at this time of year.

    my "spots to hit" list is rather lengthy:

    1) pavones. been to costa 3x & never made it that far south
    2) j-bay. i don't care that it's a right! i want to surf that wave!
    3) peru. i had the opportunity to go in 2008, but i had to back out b/c the engine fell out of my car.
    4) france. hossegor just seems so sick!
    5) new zealand. land of the long left pointbreak. what goofy footer doesn't want to go there?
    6)indo. 'nuff said.
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2010

    MATT JOHNSON Well-Known Member

    Oct 11, 2009
    I have to agree there is no place better to be this time of year is NJ. I surfed for the past 3 days and it was probally some of the best sessions I have had in awhile . Not the biggest but it was clean chest to shoulder high waves with 4 ppl out that I know . Dont get any better than that in my book
  7. zach619

    zach619 Well-Known Member

    Jan 21, 2009
    Started surfing in OC MD in the mid 1990s. I was a summer time benny though. Lived 2 hours inland. surfed on and off through college and in the summers. The day I graduated from Towson (after thinking about nothing but surf for 4 years), i packed my bags for the west coast and have surfed everyday since 2001.

    best two spots:

    1) Blacks
    2) Lowers (#2, cause blacks has more barrels)
    2.5) Calafia, Mexico....
    3) 48th st, OC MD BABY!

    Places I MUST surf at some point:

    1) Anywhere in Indo. I am a goofy footer and cannot wait to visit the land of the lefts....
    2) That long as$ left down in Costa... Never been.

    here is a photo of me surfing one of my favorite spots in the world, right here in the US. I have posted this pic earlier this year when it was taken and a few guys PMed me and know exactly where it is, but this is definately up there with lowers and blacks... but it much more fickle, which is why its not on my list.... It would be an injustice if I named the spot, seeing is how you can see that I am basically alone out there...
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2010
  8. pvjumper05

    pvjumper05 Well-Known Member

    Jun 15, 2008
    sick picture and i think that left is pavones. ive wanted to ride that wave the second my buddy told me about it

    1) i started surfing in september of '07 i think. didnt know what i was doing, ended up buying a board that just was a little less buoyant than probably recommended. made the learning curve so steep, but i charged every and any waves i could throughout the fall and late spring. then that summer i bought winter gear to surf all year round and havent looked back.

    charging those hurricane swells was a rush and even though i pretty much wiped out everytime, it was awesome experience for me. it probably helped that i was an expert swimmer too :D

    2) havent been to many places so its a dumb list, but
    a) s-turns in obx was insane during some swell 2 years back in december
    b) cape may was a ton of fun

    hoping to expand this to central america /cali sometime soon
  9. yankee

    yankee Well-Known Member

    Sep 26, 2008
    1. Started in 1979 in OCMD when I was a summer waiter at the Embers restaurant. & Cape Hatteras back when the lighthouse was in the old spot. Temporary insanity took over in 1981: I shelved surfing for pro ball. Got back in the ocean on a regular basis in 2004. (wtf was I thinking all those years out of the water....)
    Still have my very first board, a 1974 Bing, & my 1979 Sunshine House 6'8 shaped by Claude Codgen.

    2. I love the breaks (& the food) in Barbados. True confession: I also have a great time surfn with friends at Assateague & VB & that's what it's about to me at this point in life. Would like to surf Ecuador & northeastern Brasil.

    Cool post, am enjoying reading what you guys are putting up.
  10. ND081

    ND081 Well-Known Member

    Aug 7, 2010
  11. live aloha

    live aloha Well-Known Member

    Oct 4, 2009
    OC Baby

    I started surfing in OC MD in 2003 during college. Like a lot of people here, I'd still take perfect OC hurricane swell over anywhere, just because at 2-4 ft overhead it can be so damn perfect. Aside from that...

    1. Rocky Point, HI: so crowded, but the waves spread out enough that you can get some, even with half the WCT in the lineup. It's a damn fine wave too, powerful but not so crazy like Pipe.
    2. Log Cabins, HI: not-so-crowded and super gnarly, some great barrel rides if you don't mind eating it many times over in between.
    3. Santa Cruz, CA: too many spots to name, just a great place to surf and hang out

    And the wish list, since everyone else is doing that. ;)
    1. Uluwatu...if I got to choose an orgy with the Ravens' cheerleaders or just one bomb left-hander...enough said!
    2. Peru or Chile: so many lefts down there! Gotta go soon.
  12. brek

    brek Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2008
    First surfed my sophmore year of college in 1998. Had a friend whose family had a house on Holden Beach in NC and a bunch of us took a trip there one October weekend. Got up on my first wave (being pushed into it). Stayed up all night drinking Icehouse and got up to surf at dawn - naked and by myself. :cool: A lot can change in 12 years.

    Since I live a good 2.5 hours from the beach it's not something I ever did often: a week at the outer banks here, a weekend in OC there. Took a trip to Tamarindo but the surf was pretty weak. Started to get way more serious about surfing about 3 years ago when I got my own board. Now I try to go at least once a month. Since I blew out my ankle two winters ago snowboarding I'm going to see about pushing deeper and deeper into winter surfing (though not ready to give up on snowboarding just yet).

    I've done some travelling (Costa Rica, Nova Scotia, Maine) but due to bad luck and picking fickle spots to visit, haven't really scored good surf on a trip.

    Not having surfed a whole lot, I'm picking my top spots based on memorable sessions:

    1. That mushy wave in Cape May. It's got it's problems, but had two of my best sessions ever here. Went here for the first time on a Tuesday last November. The surf was acceptable, but so easy to get long rides. It was just a few days before getting ankle surgery that kept me off my feet for 4 months. Definitely helped keep the stoke while sitting on my couch playing video games. Also, felt like I really surfed on sort-of-good waves for the first time there during Hurricane Igor.

    2. I guess it's a tie between any OCMD and Outer Banks beach breaks. So many places to spread out and hopefully not have to deal with crowds.

    I'm going to Barbados in November for my honeymoon, so that's one place I'm really looking forward to hitting. I'd also really like to surf Ireland or Norway -- someday.
  13. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Started surfing in 1976 in Cape May... mostly Stockton, Backyard, and Poverty. Used to cut out of school (LCMR) and walk down the railroad tracks until I could thumb it over the bridge, then dig a board out of somebody's shed and go surf for the day, then hitch it back home in the afternoon. In the winter we'd build a small fire in the dunes at poverty to warm up between sessions. When the sand bars shifted, it would be Trenton and Philly, and once I could drive, depending on the wind, we'd go up to Stone Harbor or even AC. Trestles was great when we could get someone to get us on the base.

    Some of the best waves of my life have been right here in NJ. They're certainly no secret, so I'll just say them... The Cove at the Hook, and Wooden Jetty. One a right, the other a left, that I happened to get when they were nothing short of epic. I have very fond memories of other waves in other places, but in terms of the best quality waves I've ever surfed, for size, power, shape, length... those two spots can give you all you could ask for.

    I'd really like to surf J-Bay someday.
  14. aka pumpmaster

    aka pumpmaster Well-Known Member

    Apr 30, 2008
    Started in 1982 at 26th street in OCMD. Came up the hard way shortboarding-only and constantly getting hazed by the local enforcers. Spent that winter surfing way uptown at 133rd in a 3mil with dive boots,gloves and hood.

    Been to alot of places but my 2 favorites are Blacks and Hossegor.

    Wish list includes a month in Maine surfing chilly hurricane points, Indo, and head high uncrowded malibu (yeah I know, will never happen).
  15. cresto4

    cresto4 Well-Known Member

    Aug 19, 2010
    1. Started in 1982 on Cape Cod (Marconi)
    2. Scored quality waves in Essaouria, Morocco; Sennen Cove, Cornwall, England; Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica and Bocas del Toro, Panama (lived there for 2 years)
    3. Would love to hit up Liberia, West Africa (ha!)
  16. leethestud

    leethestud Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2010
    1998: when i was 13 i picked up (what I now realize) was the sickest board ever- a solid retro twin fish. I spent the next few summers floundering around until i actually got my first tube ride, which changed my life forever.

    Best 2 sessions:

    1. Pavones, costa rica august 2010. We found surfer mag quality DOH+ lefts reeling HUNDREDS of yards down the beach. I still have wet dreams about that day- No bullsh!t.

    2. East coast bombs in Avon with 4 of my tightest friends a few years back. Some of the heaviest waves that I have ever seen, and it was just the 5 of us. Back-dooring (and surviving) an 8 foot brown hell pit down there is the greatest feeling in the world. Having your buddies screaming at you because it looks as good as it feels makes it even cooler.

    I want to surf the entire world, but one spot at a time. Iv already planned next years 2 weeks of vacation (f#ck working!!):
    October west coast tour. Solo- No phone, no girlfriend, no bullsh!t. Just a rental car, my fav soul surfing board, and a road map.

    Thanks for letting me share the stoke!
  17. windswellsucks

    windswellsucks Well-Known Member

    Oct 20, 2007
    surfing for 17 years, started when i was 13. my two favorite spots:

    salsipuedes :(
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2010
  18. SJerzSrfr

    SJerzSrfr Well-Known Member

    Mar 2, 2010
    Started surfing in '92 in OCNJ.

    Favorite waves:
    Like many other people have said: Blacks. That was my go to spot when I lived in SD a few years back
    Its tough to pick a #2 but I would have to say hatteras or Playa Hermosa, CR.

    The wish list which is becoming reality September 2011: Mentawai Boat Trip
  19. bushwood

    bushwood Well-Known Member

    Jun 4, 2010
    Started floundering around in 1990 surfing Fernandina Beach Florida. Moved down there with my dad in a condo, the beach and pier were my backyard, knew noone there so all i had to do was paddle out after school daily.
    FInally after a few months of dropping in straight trying a bottom turn then a quick little turn and going nowhere it happened. I got three days of consitent fun NE swell and I learned to drive down the line, on a Greg Loehr epoxy. I consdier that my first day of surfing.

    Best Surfs
    1. Ocean Beach CA
    Plus overhead perfect rights, easy drops big open face walls, then once more inside fast steep race track. Loved that day.
    2. Rodanthe- KOA campground, pier Sturns and in between the 3. NO better place in the world for Chest to head high surf. Back in 93 and 94 KOA campground use to go off. Living down in nags head hten on every swell and KOAs sandbars were so epic, that nd the pier. Sutrns of course is still best spot on the east coast. OVer the past 15 years plenty of great waves in Rodanthe. I will take splitting head high A frames with my friends somewhere in Rodanthe over almost anything.

    (have a wife and two kids now so surf trips i cant drive to are hard to come by)
    Spots I want to go before turning 40.... Realistic finacially... NIcaraqua, Costa RIca, Puerto Rico...........

    Dreaming big ..... 1. France Hossegor when the ASP is town, that party has to be freaking great 2. Australia 3. Mentawas
  20. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    early 1980s learned mostly in Fenwick and OCMD (Inlet and 28th st.)

    Favorite waves surfed - Lagundri Bay Nias in Sumatra and Lower Trestles