Years Surfing + Top Two spots

got my first board out of the trash when i was 5...18 now so i guess that's 13 years. long freaking time i guess. top two spots are playa hermosa in costa rica and then this empty right point also on my costa trip.

i'd really like to do a trip to new zealand. anyone here been?

 

Definitely, I surfed pretty much every spot in Maui and not once did I ever feel like I was not welcome, but instead made friends with the locals I met...super-rad island!!!!

 

great thread......goofy's unite......
Started surfing on LBE, Surf City in 1983......I had a 5'8" Micket Munoz single fin, canary yellow and a 6'1" Hawaiian Surfboards single fin, green bottom with a 60's sunset sunburst fade on top....
Best waves I've had, Oahu mid 90's, I lived in Aina Haina for 5 years.....surfed every side of that island and scored on every side...."The Circle" was my home spot for those years.....Sandy's was sick, V-Land/Leftovers with my heart in my throat, Waikiki for the 95 swell, Windward secret spots (will never tell)
NJ from Sandy Hook to Cape May....too many good waves.....
Nantucket in the late 80's...
Central Florida, Fall, Mid/Late 80's...
Point Noreaster, NSW, Austrailia in1998 with just me and a good freind...
Whish List includes: Chicama Peru, Cloudbreak, Cloud 9, Indo, all of Central America, South Pacific, any and all lefts..
I love rights if there are no lefts......

 

LBI not LBE.........50+ hr work week,....sorry

 

and whos the hell is Micket Munoz?!?!...it's Mickey.....

 

and while you're correcting yourself, hopefully you won't mind me saying wish only has one h....lol

 

In 5th grade my parents bought me a purple and pink board from Sunshine House in OCMD. I am 32 now so that was like 23 years ago. Best waves were
1)Maui
2)Waikiki just for the experience
3)Hatteras
4)New Hampshire spots

Coolest place was the Amafi coast in Italy. The water was beautiful even if the waves weren't big. Biggest waves were Hurricane Bill in OCMD, and some random Noreaster surfing in Jersey back in 1999.

My dream waves:
1) Ollies Point
2) Jefferies Bay
3) Snapper with no one out

 

i started in Va. Beach inn 67, had to do to South end to get good enough to surf at The Steel Pier. The experienced guys would surf up behind you there after you were on the wave, push off your board and carry it to the beach under their arm. No cords made this possible. We went through the rapid change from 9'6' down to under 7 in just two years. Lots of people made a 7'6" from their 9'6" including myself. I ruined a really nice Hansen as I look back but our "cut downs" made us feel like Wayne Lynch. We discovered Hatteras right away and I feel fortunate to have surfed it before it was "discovered", although you can still surf alone on The Outer Banks. I live in Kitty Hawk and still hit it when there is swell. I have surfed Hawaii {Oahu South Shore , Kauai, and Big Island}, Mainland and Baja Mexico, Santa Cruz to Trestles, Eleuthera and Elbow Key Bahamas, Tahiti and The Tuamotus {Tikihau} . i plan to keep traveling when I can to new places, preferably where there is no crowd and warm water.
Stay healthy and keep surfing, protect your eyes, skin and ears. The exposure will catch up with you, use ear plugs to ward off surfers ear, wear a water hat to save your eyes {I had to have surgery to cut a cancer off of my eyeball} Regards, Greg

 

Damn Big Mike, did you miss Ernesto? That was a world-class day and right here!

 

and while you're correcting yourself, hopefully you won't mind me saying wish only has one h....lol

easy there Kooki....

 

oops...did it again

 

I was out of town on business. It always happens.

 

oh...sorry.

 

I have to agree..I lived on Maui from '88 to 93' and mostly surfed Paukukalo and loved the people and the place. I've been surfing since I was 10 so 40+ years and happy to say it's my art and lifestyle. Nothing better to keep you healthy and young.

 

surfing since the mid 90s. OC MD back then was the only place I ever surfed.... I was landlocked for college at Towson from 98 to 2002 just making it out once a month or so and a bunch in the summer. When I graduated, me and my girlfriend (now wife) packed up and moved to San Diego because I wanted to basically dedicate my life to surfing for a while.... It was either SD or Santa Cruz.... SD to me was a much better call..... Been surfing every day ever since for almost a decade now.... My entire 20s were consumed by surfing, trying to compete and travelling all over mexico on a weekly basis to score empty perfection with some friends. Now I Have a newborn baby, so this is actually the first time in a decade i cant surf everyday or whenever I want to... i get about 3-4 days per week and im still stoked on that.... The other mornings im working or with my Daughter... Can't wait to teach her to surf so I can drag the whole family to the beach with me all the time =)

Top spots all-time: The usual suspects that i frequent, trestles, blacks la jolla reefs and sunset cliffs.... I scored Rincon really good, Calafia in Northern Baja and I had a blast surfing on the north shore of Maui, although for when im in Maui, the surf is typically non-exsistent unless you want to drive to the east side and surf wind blow nuggets (bad luck i guess).

The only place I really want to visit that I havent been is Costa Rica.... I feel blessed that I have consistent, world class waves close to home, so i never get the travel bug... so Costa is one more spot on world travel list.... The wife and I still may end up moving back east someday, and if thats the case, I can guarantee my list of travel spots will increase 10 fold...

Cool reading everyone elses surfing history.... there are really some guys with notches on their belt.... pretty cool.

 

Love those secret spots! I scored like three good windward side days in 2 whole years, but soooo fun!!! It was almost like being back home, seeing those rare spots start firing.

 

First surfed on Aug. 6, 1998, a month shy of my 23rd birthday. I live three hours from the beach but have been in the water at least once a month, every month going on 8 years. Favorite waves, Saladita Mexico, amazing left point break. Had some great sessions in Costa Rica, but have to go with Steamer Lane as number 2, Middles. As far as best surf sessions ever, in May 2010, went to Witches Rock, we were the only boat there and for an hour and a half, 4 of us shared clean head high plus waves, amazing.

My two most desired, Raglan, I was recently in New Zealand and surfed near Auckland, but did not get a chance to hit Raglan. I'd also love to hit up Nica.

 

Your Post brought back more memories, you might have been Local? Do you remember when Jimmy & C.V. opened SunShine House on Cordell Ave Bethesda before 63rd St in OC ? Then Jimmy opened the stores in the Malls in the 80's. Amazing after all these years how much of impact the Shop had on our youth thanks for remembering those days ..................

 

the best

This thread is better than reading surfer mag.Should be made into a book be a best seller.