Yesterday I Saw...

old skool vid! i really liked 3:45 when he plows over some poor sap with a bigass singlefin

 

wow. truly inspirational. thanks for that.
' just give me sunshine through the autumn...'
(and some more of that hurricane swell)

 

Last summer, when Donavon Frankenreiter was on tour, he stopped in Dewey for a night to play at the bottle and cork.
That day, he went out to surf at tower road, when I first saw him, I didn't recognize him, he was already leaving the beach, so I saw him walking holding a foam board, that's right a f**** foam board and wearing jhorts, not only that but they were 2 sizes too small, skin tight and ass crack exposed, I could not stop laughing.
He was really cool though, I stopped and talk to him and asked him if liked fish tacos and he was all over it, to later found out that the manager had other plans for him rather than stop at "EL Dorado" for some fish tacos.
Anyway, I could never forget that day, anybody that doesn't know who he is would of thought "what a scumbag" or something, even holding that softboard, I wished I had a camera with me that day.
Awesome!

 

haha. Nice. OB is still exactly the same. Well, Newport ave is now lined with MJ dispensaries, but the black is still the black. The Black started making these shirts this year that say "Welcome to OB, Please dont feed our Bums"... Its epic... Good times. I would love to live up on Santa Barbara and Newport, but all those mansions are outta my price range. I live in North OB, right outside "The War Zone" with all the hell's angels =)

 

I've told my son the stories of how we would get a pair of jeans, a pair of corduroys and a pair of sweats at the beginning of every school year. We would wear them all year and when summer came my mother would cut them all into shorts and I would wear them and surf in them all summer into the next fall when they would almost fall apart. I would even cut my pajamas and wear them in the surf although one good wipe out and they would be pulled off. Can't tell you how many times I had to hike my pajamas once I got to my feet because they were half down my ass . As bad as everyone says it is now, we were downright poor by the standards most people under 25 are today.

 

The fashionistas are on surf patrol, eh? The oxymoron is surf wear by companies such as Counter Culture. ROFL.