Living on the east coast its all about timing and yesterday was one of those rare days that just comes together. Had to work 10-5 so I was going to get a little dawn patrol session in by myself but decided not to go due to onshore winds blowing 25+ so I just slept in knowing there was a chance for cleanup. I got out of bed headed to work bummed because the wind was gonna switch offshore around 3ish and I was only gonna have an hour or so to surf. The day went by pretty slow as I was thinking of an excuse to get the hell outta there by 3. Luckily it was as slow as RIsurfer in there so I got out at exactly 3. But it doesnt stop there. I get to the beach right as its cleaning up and have an epic session. Went in to go get a drink from the drink machine but I thought I would sponge of a fishing group that didnt have water but had tons of beer. Brahs a cold beer after getting sucked into tubes is one of those things where it is just magical. Paddled back out caught some more, surfed til dark. Had an amazing dinner. Then woke up this morning to more fun 4ft waves. Yeeeeeew. Hope you got it as good as we did here on the banks yesterday.
Zach619, are you giving this kid writing lessons? Dune, how was your first beer? Glad you had a good day.
Sunday PM and Monday AM (before 8) were really really really really really really really really really really really really fun VB status. Not many folks out and that high tide was working wonders! So many waves that are typically close outs here kept my head dry. Man, it was rollin through. I regret not surfing the 2nd spot more. I will put it to you like this...around this time of year, there is a certain spot that seems to get more popular right before it gets cold. weird that this happens like clock work. I was there, good vibes and waves. Left there feeling good and tired, had dinner plans with my gals family, surf the spot by their place and it put the first spot to shame and there were only tourists on the beach taking pictures. Earth got my message...send chest high, racey waves this way non-stop for 2 sessions...awesome. I'm still stoked. I'm stoked for this honkin azz wind headed this way. Big in the ocean, and the wildcard option will be working in VB if yall know what I mean. I am in no hurry to put on the rubber but its coming. DUne, I'm stoked man. I know it was good down there. More swell a coming dude. Our next flat spell will hurt. I will say this though, we had a lil one like 2-3 weeks ago (or something like that). Perhaps that will be the one for a while. It does seem like the weather pattern has altered. Look no further than the temperature. A couple of more sunny days with mid 80s or so temps, honkin south wind and board shorts right before severe weather and then its colder water-wise.
What was it? You're at a great point of exploration in your life right now. Kinda like when you started beating it. You're gonna want to figure out how fast you can drink a beer, how many beers you can drink in a night and again, like beating it, how to drink until it hurts. Ask bubonic for some tips. He's a pioneer.
