yet another epic swell in a countless string

Its the summertime blues! Its really gonna suck when we finally do get a good swell because everybody and their brother will be out.

 

nothing can suck about a good swell at this point, I don't care if were stacked on top of each other out there....this dribble has gone on long enough! Give me head high to 1-2 ft OH or give me death!!!!!!!!!!

PRAY FOR HURRICANES!!!!!!!!!!!!! AAAAAAAAAHHHHHH...I'm going out of my f@%!&*# mind!!!!!!!!

 

I hear ya, I didn't say that I would not be one stacked up in the lineup. I am getting ready to head out for low tide for todays knee to waist swell. I'll go out in just about anything to get wet. Its the time my mind is clear and feel at peace.

Take a soul trip..

 

I find that at in these drought stricken moments of summer, it doesn't hurt to ingest an 8th of some psilocybe cubensis. Thataway, you really have no depth perception or scale of wave height and everything is epic. Just my 2 cents...
________
Iphone games

 

Are you one of the 37 heads I saw bobbing in the calf-high shore break at the 1st street jetty yesterday?

 

3.6 ft at 11 seconds was the forecast for this morning at 8am. It was ankle high beach break closeout. Hate to be negative but I don’t think you can butcher a forecast any worse than that.

 

It happens all the time. It's not just this site. The national weather service can't even get a coastal wind forecast speed and directions right at 8:00am for winds at 2:00pm. It's the computer models that the forecasters use. They suck. Fairly simple. Meteorology is an inexact science.

 

Yeah, tell me about it, I even have to paddle into my own waves. You would think with technology by now I could just lay there and get spontaneously thrust into the wave....BUT NO...i have to f'ing paddle with my own arms.

 

I know, what a joke, right!?

 

You mean you still paddle? I hired a migrant paddler. Between that and my "Should I take this wave" app on my iPhone, I've got it made!

 

HAHAHA.... some of those are funny... but seriously... stop *****ing and **** off if you want to complain about the forecast. If it's not up to what you want, then do it the **** yourself!


Thank you Micah and SwellInfo for everything.

 

Today was really weak but overall for summertime I think its been pretty good.We had those couple weekends where we had a nice size swell out there.It is summer time.As far as forecasting goes I think swellinfo has been pretty much spot on.

 

i think my favorite yesterday was a new surfer who was 13 yr old kid on a 6'6 nsp telling telling me i was crazy for riding a 5'7 and asking me questions about my width and thickness. i was nice for a little but omg give me a big swell so it could wash these kids to shore and leave me alone haha

as far as the swellforecast i would rather see some size than have it be flat so thanks for some kind of forecast!

 

I've been having a blast the past few days...

 

buy a herlihy and learn how to skim, its super fun but not something that just happens. practice is very necessary. helps me with surfing too.

 

its was a fun small day . Nothing to write home about. A hot day of surfing small waves is better than a hot day working

 

good timing

Sounds like it's a good time to be on the DL with knee surgery. Which I am, lol.

I'll make it back for August, then the storm season, then into wetsuit weather....appreciate you guys handling the kooks & the idiots during turista season.........



Keep the stoke.
And look out for each other out there...

 

wow that really sucks.. and i almost drove 4 hours to go surfing today, glad i didnt.. yea this summer is sucking on some big avacados, i hate to say it but i want some winter swell haha, or at least some hurricane