You know this is all Laird and Donovan's fault right?

You mean the cows and the pigs??

 

Show-off!!!!

 

If you dont ride a LB 90% of the time then you most certainly are ghey!

 

pfft i recall times if you showed up with a lb you got punched...ah the good ole days

 

Everything is valid

except potato chip boards.

 

I remember those days well. I actually dont care what anyone else rides! I do loves me a good logging session tho!

 

i really like to combine shapes. I did a round nose fish shape with modern rails, squash tail and quad fins. thing is amazing.

 

Dang this is exactly what I want to do. Round nose with a touch of planing hull in the entry. Sounds like a bar of soap.

 

I started riding a fish back in the 70's and never stopped. I just kept adding boards to my quiver... quads, thrusters, longboards, other "alt" shapes. I get bored riding the same thing all the time, so I like the options. They're all fun to me.

And for me, it's always been about tubes... and noserides.

 

Nah Barry, I’m like 6’4” and back then I was like 180 lbs when wet. (Now I’m like 210 on a good day).
Bought a rail thin Seasoned 6’6” cuz all the pros were riding them.
Bogged down in the summer. When I finally put on a 4/3 there was zero floatation.
I was young, dumb, and trendy. But I stubborn,y rode that thing for a few years.
Traded in for a 7”0’ Blue Hawaii (plus 75 bucks) during my first trip to Hawaii.
Now I ride a 6’”8 fish with 3 and 1/4 rails (23” wide) to float me and my surfing has never been better.
Also have a beater 9’0” longboard.
Flotation and a wide nose are king for me!

 

100%. I agree about laird.
But

1) donavon actually rides some pretty HP shapes. He's style is more soulfull then his boards. But that's not really important. He's one of my favorite surfers

2) soul shapes are fun. If your not competing (which is dumb in my opinion) then why hinder yourself with a HP shape. Unless the waves really call for it. My "HPSB" most would consider a hybrid or grovler or somthing. But to me it's what helps me surf some what aggressively on east coast waves. My favorite thing about switching to a mini, LB, or SB single fin is the fact that it'sa diffrent feeling under your feet. A diffrent approach to the wave. Resulting in diffrent lines being drawn. And that's fun and exciting

 

He is bonga perkins and we are not.

 

Wow really what do you get tubes and noserides on and where? I wanna get me some of those.

 

lol...

 

Nice flick.

 

You can get tubed on anything, anywhere... but only if it's good enough. It's my favorite thing about surfing... way better than airs or turns or whatever. I'll stall or set up for a coverup over winding up for a big hack any day.

Noserides... all about logging, as long as the wave has a bit of juice. I don't ride HPLBs anymore. For me longboarding is all about noserides... on a heavy(ish) 9'+ singlefin with nice tail kick and deep nose concave. I can't get noserides if it's weak and small, but if even a 2' wave has some vertical face to it, you can get noserides.

 

I blame Donovan for hipsterism. Hipsters suck.

 

I saw his band Sunchild at a Warped Tour years ago. Meh

 

While I whole hardheartedly agree about the hipster thing, he was cool in the "Drive Thru" movies.