Your duck dive is going to fail. now what?

Exactly. Don't hold your breath here. 90% of these posters surf waist high waves. If they surf anything close to head, they are ditching like crazy because they don't know how to duck dive. That's why they are actually asking for techniques besides duck diving. Learn to duck dive properly, that is the answer.

 

Exactly. People are talking about ditching when whitewater is coming, lol. You could possibly see someone ditch as you say when a huge lip is going to crack right on them. This still shouldn't happen, if you know how to time sets and waves. I'm not saying it doesn't but you should always duck dive with very rare exceptions.

 

Nothing beats like getting your a$$ handed to you by a DOH wave . I sure wish i could get at least a hh wave to ditch me board . stupid flat spell .

 

Yes, i'm talking about the mid atlantic even when it gets heavy, you shouldn't bail. That's just how I was taught and I always surfed. I'm not talking huge waves it other parts of the world. I'm talking east coast. They are rare instances in winter if you are surfing some huge waves in mid-atlantic and a lip is going to dentonate on your head and no one around, fine. If someone is around you, you should never ditch your board. People start doing this in small 8 foot waves, and it becomes a habit that they do in crowds which will eventually deserve a beat-down when it hits an experienced surfer. If you are surfing waves on the east coast, you rarely ever should have a reason to ditch your board. Learn to duck dive properly or you are probably don't know your limits until you almost kick the bucket.

 

I can't believe these guys saying "never let go of your board". If I think I'm gonna make it I always duck dive. But if I think my face is gonna be implanted on the top of my board, guess what, I'm bailin! That's why they invented leashes! I've never had to bail and be worried about hitting someone else with my board. You shouldn't be paddling that close to any body. Anticipate where you are going and back off if someone is around you.

 

Never had a leash break? Then you are not in waves big enough to be bailin your board any damn way.

 

The more I've read this tread the more I realize I've never really made it a habit to ditch on any type of paddle out. It's when I end up in the impact zone post-spin off my board (after a failed ride or a failed DD) that I even think of it. When I'm not on my board and I see a formidable set rolling in, my tendency is to go with the best available situation which is diving through the wave since I would get crashed on by the time I try to get back to the board, flip it over, get a paddle stroke or two back into the nice trough of the wave crashing, rinse, spin, repeat, gas out, then...

When I think of the times I've been diving through waves off the board like this it's not usually when anyone is near me or even out on the water with me. I've been in some straight up winter gnar at least 10-12 times now that I think of it when no one else was out and there's probably a reason for it.

 

Yes carter, lol, that's plenty true. It will eventually break if you are ditching in stuff that is capable of breaking it. The times I've dove through waves I think I had the intuition to dive deep enough as well as pull my leash leg down towards the bottom to start submerging the board. That should lessen the yank when you've got to do this.

 

Bro, HH-OH victory at sea in redonk winds is far worse. The DD's we are all talking about are through intact wave faces or troughs at least. Then again, see my other posts here about days where you're wondering why you're the only guy out haha

 

Do what Wayne would do. Pray, pray to god.

 

yeah those days where your sitting on the beach getting your mindset right . Feeling the vibe of the swell . As your paddling back out and that sets rolling in . you see the third wave out the back standing up about to throw out that thick fat lip . Barely over the first one and then under the second one . hoping your making the third one . Then there it is . Your face to face with this kooky monster about to eat you . The first word that pop up in your brain is " mommy!" . Yeah maybe ditching the board may be the best bet . or sing the brady bunch song as your getting hammered . Those are the days . A little poop in the wetsuit is good here and there . Makes you feel alive .

 

Shotted the wetsuite!!!!

 

i dont see the huge deal in letting your board go but holding the leash close to the leash plug. but if you just let it fly youre an a hole and should be on the sand

 

Yeah brodi won, next time the white water river freight train is heading at me i'll just jump over it. Can't believe I never thought of that.

But seriously I'm talking about walls of white water you not only couldn't jump over, but if you tried to jump over it you are not going to have a good time.

If you duck dive when you should bail, you're not going to have a good time.

I never duck dive white water. Even if it is deep. I've got my leash reinforced but I have lost my board on big days. It's just a gamble I'm willing to take.

Thing are different on a stand up board, which is way easier to get deep fast on a duck dive (I know because I've done both). But with a body board, if it's over head, and I legitimately mean overhead you broudettes, you will fair better ditching your board.

My friend is way more reluctant than me to ditch his board on a big day because you can lose it. But if we both are paddling out and he duck dives that bomb, and I ditch my board and slink under water like a sand worm (and a like a human does instinctively when initiated) I will come out ahead, and when I pop up i pop right onto my board (i'm fit you flabtasters) I am already paddling. I can duck dive like a boss, but if a wave breaks right in front of me... no thanks been there done that, don't need internet rudis telling me how to shred.

 

And to clarify I am specifically reffering to waves that have already broken and you are just in that absolute worst spot. I will slink under bombs so easily you completely lose your fear of it. If it's possible I'm going to duck dive every wave, ditching is a last resort but it's completely natural and it's a tool that if you don't have it in your arsenal good luck keeping up with people that aren't too macho to do it.


That's my opinion derived from my experiences so take it at that

 

If you french fries when you should pizza, you're gonna have a bad time.

 

True.. But if you pizza when you should freedom fry you're a pu$$y

 

Yessir, that is the other half of the riddle.

 

let's get a few things straight.
1) In France, fried shoe string pieces of potato are called pomme frits. Translated directly, it means fried apple, but nobody eats a fried apple. Plus, these Pomme frits are eaten with mayonnaise. Disgusting you say> Oh contrare mon fraire, they are delicious. Don't hate, b i t c h, try them. They eat them with steak too. The French can do a handful of things, and one of them is cook.
2) In America, you can call them a French Fry. Totally acceptable. We can use the French descriptor any damned way we want, ya heard? France is our B I T C H. They are afraid of us. We have bastardized the French descriptor to our American liking, and we will continue to do so.
3) You don't put a coating on a piece of potato like Burger King, then fry it and tell me that's a French Fry. If you try that s h i t with me, I will throw it at you. Burger King is dead to me now because of that.