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Discussion in 'Global Surf Talk' started by worsey, Sep 8, 2014.
Looks pretty committed to the DD. Wonder how the rest of this worked out.
one last thing that guy who couldn't handle his yak and guys who think its ok to ditch there boards in non unusal conditions aren't much different.
And this is an oldie but a goodie. Blacks beach cleanup set. The guys on the side duck it, but look at around :28, dude on the far left. Pulls the diving board donkey ditch move. No one behind him, but this was a premeditated action and there is no one out on a day like that that isn't full of experience. 20 foot sets.
Sorry Peajay...I shoulda kept my fingers shut.
That took me here,
we cant compare ourselves to the dudes surfing in the 50s.we are pus$ies compared to them,like shane dorian and greg long,pus$Y kooks compared to them.they were real watermen.and they drank,smoked,popped acid,stole beer and crashed cars.i get the whole safety thing,new age,no problem.but these guys paddled out on boards that can put a hole in your house,like 35lb boards with no leashes,no rocker.no jetskis,no safety devices or a safety team.u lose ur board u have to swim in through 30 ft waves on your own.i read a few books on the oldtymers like noll and eddie.back then the waves were too big for contests,guys like fred hemmings who is now a senator in Hawaii last I checked said if I go out and catch one contest is on.thats real determination,no excuses.u want to surf u go surf.u want to bail your board lol be a man,take the set on the head and try again
Dudes no one charges as hard general lee he flies over waves and surfer 30time harder than slater. He never duck dives of ditches he is the king.
and zeroevol, he looks in a spot to ...just.....get under it, I dunno though, looks like a lickn..but BUCK UP AND TAKE YOUR MEDICINE
the guy is sh!tting in his boardes , the caption should say mommy ..
Dude I mostly kidding. Mostly. This happened three years ago. I'm passed it. Almost.
But I did check out of work after that last post. Blasted Ride The Lightning on the way to the beach and paddled out into a mess of chest high wind swell. wasn't the death bombs I was hoping for but I managed to rip a few up.
The ocean heals. The whiskey soothes.
You get any?
zach that vid is unreal. The audio track is eerie bro. Kind of like that tribal music in American Beauty but wayyyy creepier.
cep, what I want to know is how they duck dove a board weighing anything close to 35lbs (literally, how'd they do it technically?) as well as what happened when they did get crashed on while holding the board. Like specifics bro. Because at some point it's like jumping out of a building no parachute packed let alone pulled.
Why is this even a topic with the epidemic of hodads strapping their boards on the roof nose facing forward?
This is the real issue. It's real, and it's destroying surfing.
I did compare, dark by the time I got out, was hoping for some moonlight, but still managed to snag a couple.
Emass there were even wahines.
Score! At your normal break?
I was making serious moves between 530-730 and couldn't abandon the call to go charge first swell in days. Drove by the break at dusk to peep for excitement. Tomorrow there's mad swell and then something to ride most days in the foreseeable future. Stoked.
You go into work 7 hours early or what?
Btw wahines should've come back to your crib bro. Post-sesh pizza.
Yessir, at the go to...actually cleaned up a tad as the sun was setting. Believe it or not, I posted that from home, from my kindlefirehdmax 7c...workin on them wahines. Wish I had today off...
Dude, you get post of the day for nonchalant usage of the word "Hodad"... Epic... Such an under-rated, meaningful term. Not just a tasty burger. And you are right about the strapping. Just ask the guy who polled us on his space age roof racking system.
I hear you....
zach - good catch.
i was actually worried this word was going to go away.....
not such a prob on this forum..
but in my line-up.....a different story.
And every time I go there, some Hodad steals my wax....
Yes bro that caught my eye too. Let's use it more.