I always do an hour yoga session before surfing...............Sure I do..........Only ritual I have is a longsleeve rashguard and sunblock. I had a malignant melanoma in 04' so I had surgery and a lymphnode removal in my groin. My Dermatologist said at 42 I had the sun exposure of a 60 yr old from surfing with no sun protection when I was young.
remember back when baby oil was the tanner's choice.... yeah. sunblock and hat fer me. i had a chunk each taken off my cheek and my nose, with sundry others taken from my back....b!tchen tan tho....
Ditto, perfectly stated! It is nice those times when you do squeeze out a log before the dawn session though. As someone else mentions it usually hits me while heading down to the beach from being excited. Forgetting things is a biggy too as stoke often takes over. One time after a good session I was walking back to my car going over the awesome rides in my head when I see my car and the back door is wide open. Luckily nothing was taken since the door was open for about 3 hours and it was def. me who left it that way.
I hear ya Sponge.......I get hacked up every 6 months for the rest of my life..........Happy Happy Joy Joy......
I had a similar experience. Left a 150$ nixon watch on the hood of my car one time for 3 hours in seaside heights, and came back to find it untouched. Thank God. i love my watch