I grew up in Long Island and started surfing in high school. I now live in Baltimore and have to watch the forecasts, take sick days, plan vacations around surfing and work really hard for waves. i am now 35 years old and still at it. I guess I am a lifer. Funny how people who don't surf, don't get the obsession.
your tone, your presence, 17 posts in 24 hours, welcome back bill
Wow....my tone, presence, and ability to have an opinion more than once in a day sounds like a dude named Bill?!
That's freaking amazing. Not sure how to take it though. I could think, "I must be repealing" or "I seem too good to be true". I'm going with the later
Um, yea, so to clear the air I'm a woman. My nick name is Dirty Momma, but most my friends just call me Dirty <--- Not what your hoping, wishing for, or afraid of.....They call me Dirty because of what's coming out of my mouth, not what's going in it.
Last edited by yourdirtymomma; May 4, 2012 at 02:40 PM.
I don't knoW if this was said in the last couple pages but surfing is like drugs. You do it once and you get and addicted and you love every second of it. (I do not smoke or do drugs , it is nasty and very bad for your health)
Therapy. Its just one of those ways that we humans have found that lets us truly be in harmony with the earth and the forces around it and that move it. Its simple to see how it could be addictive..It makes us happy. Who isn't for that?..oh yeah, inspiration too.
This is my take on it exactly........Wether its 2' or 10', I'm going to have a great time.....