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Thread: Steep Drops

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Brick Township, New Jersey, United States
    im using a 6'2 thruster and a fish that a little shorter and dealt with the steep drops recently too. my bayhead break, for me, is notorious for this nonsense and up until this year i've always had to deal with a lownumber-ride-sessions because the steep drops always owned me. yet, no matter what i dealt with the beatings in order to learn and after a while i started getting used to the speed, the angle, the steepness, and what to do when you are up.

    the hardest for me was the fact that my board was so short. i went from being able to push up and take a second to feel the wave before jumping up, on to these waves where you literally need to jump on the board almost right as you begin to catch the wave. unfortunately for me, my backside balance is poor and i usually end up doin a big bottom turn carve and get RAILED by the wave. however, my frontside is waaay better and i feel a small turn almost near the bottom keep most of the speed and gets you moving out of the danger zone.

    short version: getting to your feet extremely quick solved my problem of steep waves... now only to fix going left
    Last edited by pvjumper05; Aug 16, 2010 at 09:16 PM. Reason: ****ty ass grammar :)

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Norfolk, VA
    Quote Originally Posted by motivated2surf View Post
    It is a large board but it has a notched tail that does get more narrow. I don't know if that will help with manuevering the board.
    Yes, but not in the way that we're concerned about. The "notch" is known as a wing or a step. It allows the water to release from the board's edge & gives a little more bite in the turn. Without it, the wider tail would break into a slide easier in a hard turn. There's more to it, but that's the concept.

    Quote Originally Posted by motivated2surf View Post
    Also, I was contemplating what board to get. Only have enough money for a used board but want something that can be used in all our surf year round here from knee high to head high and steep waves. Any suggestions? I was thinking a small RNF but I wasn't sure. Since I've been surfing for a short time, I'm can't tell how different board templates fit to different waves yet.
    Where are you?

  3. #33
    I just air-drop all day every day. Low Waimea type stance and just straight up air drop it. All day every day.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Monmouth County
    Might sound like common sense but keep the nose up.As you surf more and more you'll relize what waves to catch and what waves to pass on.Alot of times after I pass on a wave I check it out to see how it broke.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Cape May Co, NJ
    If your riding a longboard you need to be farther back on the tail or your guaranteed to get worked.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Milford, DE
    With a 6'8" surfboard or any surfboard you want to get on the wave early and get up quick once you feel your board accelerate, but most importantly get a good angle on the wave, don't ride the wave straight or you will get pearled, You want a good 45 to 55 degree angle on takeoff to the open face of the wave, don't get too much of an angle or you will tossed over the falls which is worse than pearling, once in position set your rail and enjoy the view.
    For extra speed get your stance closer to nose of the board, front foot 3/4 to the nose and back foot 3/4 to the tail; put it this way your back foot shouldn't be on the kick pad, if you have one (Tracktop), Once your in the open section of wave then shimmy back to normal stance. That's how Mick Fanning does it...

    1. get on it early
    2. get up quick
    3. set angle
    4. set rail
    5. smile you’re in the green room or the brown on the east coast

  7. #37
    I have always found the most successful way to drop in on steep waves is to lay in your rail as you are popping (fast of course). and when I say lay in your rail, I mean not dropping straight and making a bottom, because steep waves = fast. No time unless the face is holding up to drop straight and make a long bottom turn. I like to paddle hard in any direction into the wave. I think direction you paddle can be adjusted as you pop. you begin to lay the rail by turning your head and shoulders as you initiate popping. and as you get to your feet you drop and lay into your toes or heels (frontside or backside) and keep you head and shoulders pointed down the line.

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by GoodVibes View Post
    Might sound like common sense but keep the nose up.As you surf more and more you'll relize what waves to catch and what waves to pass on.Alot of times after I pass on a wave I check it out to see how it broke.
    Words of wisdom. I found myself doing this a lot too, looking at where and when it broke, and if I'm not looking back, listening to when it broke after I passed it to get a feel of how long it took to break (kinda dorky, I know)

  9. #39
    Four pages of responses on equipment ,stance, concave, yada yada. I promise you your problem is you're not paddling hard enough. Bigger waves = longer period = faster = sucks up more water = you need to paddle harder and faster, when you think you're ready to drop, paddle once more.

    Shift up a little on your board, put your face down, and start paddling hard and commited, guarantee it will make a huge difference.

  10. #40
    This is a great thread - lots of good stuff. It was good to see frankshred's comment a few comments above, because that's always really helped me, leaning a bit on the inside rail. Not sure if this is technically the best way to do it, and no one ever told or taught me this - I just one day started trying to replicate the feel of snowboarding, when you're in a half pipe or a steep section of hill and you need to lean and keep that uphill edge.

    I'd be curious to hear from others about whether this is considered a good way to go about it.

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