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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by MFitz73 View Post
    Okay, just for the fun of it... I'll be the first to supply the generic Dbag response to this sort of thing...

    hey, this is a free service. stop your b*tching.

    leave the computer once in a while and check yourself if you really call yourself a surfer.
    You got it, I'll drive 1-1/2 hours just to see if its good...then can I call myself a surfer?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Lewes, DE
    Quote Originally Posted by wombat View Post
    Thanks Swell. So in this case the dominant factor is the forecast for the movement is the timing of that front and the nature of the gradient it creates? If the weather model that you pull from has less stability on a forecast, this flows through as the fluctuating swell size?

    in the absence of real weather makers like tropical or winter storms, is it this creation of gradients offshore between the high and low pressure systems that drive the east coast swell size/direction?

    thanks again
    Pressure gradients create wind, wind creates waves, waves create swell.
    Differential pressure in the air masses is what drives everything.

    What creates the high and low pressure air masses you may ask...
    Well, that is caused by the differential heating of the earth's atmosphere, which varies in both time and space due to tilt of the earth's axis and the rotation of the earth on its axis in relation to the sun.

    In the winter we see the strongest storms, because the temperature gradients from the equatorial region to the poles are greatest during the cold months.
    Last edited by Swellinfo; Aug 23, 2013 at 03:09 PM.