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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Long Beach Township
    Waves and Beaches by Willard Bascom

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by MATT JOHNSON View Post
    Reading All for a Few Perfect Waves By David Rensin now and i have to say it the best book I have ever had the privledge to read.

    i blasted threw 125 pages in a cpl of hours and laughed my ass off.
    Definitely a book to savor, Matt. Rensin did an epic job putting it together. A complicated story about a complicated individual. Still not a Dora fan, but I came away thinking. About Dora and life in general. So the author did his job really well.

    It's sitting on my shelf of "all time" reads - right next to "Waves and Beaches."

    PS - There's also a short chapter in Gerry Lopez's "Surf Is Where You Find It" about a chance enounter with Dora in Bali in the early 70's. Definitely "seconds" Rensin's work. Also, Mr. Lopez is a very good writer. You can hear his voice for sure.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by fupafest View Post
    DO NOT read Captain Zero, the author is a complete asshole. First the book is well written and does give a good idea of what its like to travel but jeez the man is a JERK. Captain Zero currently lives in Nica, you can even book a surf camp with him. He states that he has not seen a penny from the novel he inspired. What kind of "friend" is Wiesbecker. I clearly shows his character in the real world and I can't take his book whole heartly. The funny thing is Captain Zero doesn't even want the money but rather the recognition he deserves. He's the true spirit of that book so instead read Pipe Dreams by Kelly or I forget the title but the battles of Mark Fo and Ken Bradshaw. These are real surf books not some egotistical novel dissing us shortboarders who, "rip up the wave, rather than feeling the glide." What a joke!!!!
    If the personal transgressions and character flaws (including being a total a-hole) of the artist or performer were relevant to my enjoyment of the craft, I would never in my life have read Hemingway, Roth, London, or a zillion other authors. And I'd probably never have listened to a zillion great bands headed by assholes or watched a single NFL, MLB or NBA game. 90 percent of the surf books I've read, including Good Things Love Water, was just so horribly written I couldn't bear it. The Search for Captain Zero was a woderfully written exception.

  4. #34
    I liked "Caught Inside" by Daniel Duane.
    I couldn't finish "West of Jesus", I just felt that the book was not going anywhere.
    "Surfer's Code" by Shaun Tomson is a waste

    Here's a good article from the New Yorker in the 90's.

    The writer describes surfing in San Francisco's Ocean Beach. I thought that this exerpt was very well written:

    The only audience that matters to most surfers is other surfers, for they alone can truly appreciate what they are seeing. They have been through the special ordeal of learning to surf, and know what a good performance involves. Also, they share the obsession. Sunday surfers—people for whom surfing is a hobby, who keep their surfboards in the closet next to their skis and tennis racquets—undoubtedly exist. But every Sunday surfer who can stand up on his board was, at some stage, obsessed, for nothing less can get one through the hundreds of difficult, discouraging hours it takes to gain basic skills. And retaining those skills requires constant practice; in other words, competence presumes obsession.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Kenai Peninsula, Alaska
    Quote Originally Posted by NJSwell View Post
    Waves and Beaches by Willard Bascom
    this. great book. the amphibious vehicles (dukws) they used were crazy...(r&d in va)

    have to admit, though, i understood very little of the wave science
    Last edited by cresto4; Apr 24, 2011 at 10:04 PM.

  6. #36
    This was an easy read that I couldn't put down. Here's a description...

    by Tim Winton

    "How strange it was to see men do something beautiful," says the young narrator of Breath. "Something pointless and elegant, as though nobody saw or cared." He is talking, surprisingly enough, about surfing, a multimillion-pound international sport that nowadays hardly anyone thinks of in terms of not being seen. But there was a time, Winton tells us in his first novel since the Booker-shortlisted Dirt Music, when surfing was the closest a man - perhaps especially an Australian man - could get to poetry.

    Twelve-year-old Bruce Pike, "Pikelet", lives in Sawyer, near Perth in Western Australia, in the early 70s. A small town of "millers and loggers and dairy farmers", Sawyer is also home to Loonie, one year older than Pikelet and a boy congenitally incapable of turning down a dare. They meet in the local river, Loonie swimming to the bottom and holding his breath for upwards of two minutes with the sole intention of scaring tourists into thinking he's drowning. The boys spur each other on to greater and greater risks, to the point of vomiting and passing out. Anything for a "rebellion against the monotony of drawing breath".

  7. #37
    Surf Is Where You Find It by Lopez - - seems obvious, but the reader quickly realizes that this is sublime writing at a very high level

    Tapping the Source by Nunn - - still very, very good, after all the years

    In Search of Captain Zero by Weisbecker - - he has a tale to tell & he has ability, this is good stuff.......hey, I don't know the guy, and the reason I mention this is 'cause several posters here have ripped Weisbecker for some sort of encounters? but this is good story & that's what you're after...hell, most writers are nutso de facto, so WTF is the big deal about Weisbecker's parameters ....?

    ......BTW, gents, I mean, really, if you were so concerned about a writer's personal life, you'd never read Conrad (Southern cracker racist; also an anti-Semitic loon), you'd never read Hemingway, not sober anyways (Papa was an alcoholic of the finest kind & blew his brains out with a shotgun in a cabin in Ketchum, Idaho in 1961), you'd never read Poe (total maniac, drug-infused & manic depressive & much more), you'd never read Hunter Thompson (drug central, socialist, it's a long list but one of the original hellmen of all time), you'd never read Jack London (Call of the WIld an incredible book, top 3 of all time, but author Jack London? later in life a miserable, hateful prick), you'd never read Oscar Wilde nor George Bernard Shaw (look them up).

    Reading is the best ! Just read !! The Works of good / great writers. And be proud that you're tearing yourself away from the fattening-of-America-XBOX......

  8. #38
    most of my fav's have already been mentioned but also check out the "best of Surfer magazine" its hard cover and about 300 pages. Its filled with about a dozen of their hand picked, finest feature articles. Its a great bathroom read!

  9. #39
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Quote Originally Posted by Retzlaff44 View Post
    "All For a Few Perfect Waves" by David Rensin

    Biography of Miki Dora. A little different in that the writer guides you through Dora's life but doesn't really "tell" the story himself. Instead, he interviewed hundreds of people, and let their own words speak for themselves. So you have people who worshiped Dora, people who hated him, people he cheated, people he was kind to, etc.

    From all these different perspectives you get to draw you own conclusions on who Dora was and what he meant to surfing. And you get to learn a lot about surfing history and its roots at the same time.

    I'm not a Dora fan, but I though it was great book. The writer did a great job piecing the various interviews together to create the book's "story." Not an easy thing to do.
    That was a sick book. The moose recommends reading this asap!!!

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by yankee View Post
    Reading is the best ! Just read !! The Works of good / great writers. And be proud that you're tearing yourself away from the fattening-of-America-XBOX......

    I get what you're saying (and, reading is great). But, this statement doesn't make a whole lot of sense. Usually you're not doing anything more when reading then you are when playing video games or watching TV.