In the water, DeTemple’s modern adaptation of time-honored style makes it clear that he doesn’t give up on a good thing, even in the midst of complications. Though medical issues had the potential to prevent him from ever surfing again, he refused to be put out of commission – he was enjoying life too much as it was. Rather than letting go of the past, he used that secondhand spark to drive him forward. The experience of hardship contextualized the past: it underscored the transience of health and vitality. Threatened by the possibility of missing out on what he loved, DeTemple adopted an almost frantic energy to live life to its fullest.

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